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I am a wannabe seamstress and I love to make my own clothes and accessories. This is a place to share that, and how- to's on the subject. Feel free to share your ideas, pictures of things you've made etcetera etc.

Make your Own Laptop Case

Posted By davie k on Dec 12, 2007 at 11:47AM

I was surfing online, because I just got a new toshiba portégé notebook and I want a new case. Anywho, as you know I like to make things for myself and stumbled upon this at my favourite site for these sort of things. It's originally by zoundsPadangon. So I thought I would share: laptop with "racing stripes"laptop with "racing stripes"
YOU WILL NEED: cardboard, duct tape and a laptop(hehe).

I was lucky enough to find a box that was just the right size for my macBook. You may have to hunt around to find one you like but as long as there are no creases in the middle (eg too small a box) you should be ok with any size.

Your box is perfect if you can just barely stand your computer on end when it's all constructedmaterialsmaterialsThe perfect fitThe perfect fit
Alright, screw your courage to the sticking place and prepare for first blood.

Cut your box open down one of the corners. Then trim it down to two sections and loose two opposing flaps.

There will be two measurements you will have to make now. The first corresponds to the depth or hight of your lappy. The second corresponds to the width. The easiest way to do these is to just roll it. First set it so the bottom lines up with the edge of the two flaps (like it is in the pictures) then set it up on end while keeping one edge on the cardboard like a hinge. If you are careful you will get the exact hight measurement you need. Mark with a pen. This measurement will be a crease. Keep rolling it so its lying upside down. Mark again. This measurement will be a cut.

You can crease however you like but I cut through the first layer down on the inside down a ripple of the corrugated middle layer.The first cutsThe first cutsCreasingCreasing

Alright. Almost done cutting. Now we need to create the sides of the case. To do this you trim the remaining flaps to the same length as the hight of your computer.Folding it overFolding it over

I left enough material at the top to make a flap. I'm sure you could just as easily leave it open. If you do want a flap it's as easy as two extra creases and maybe a cut to shorten it.

Now fold her up. You can tape to suit you. some like straight lines, others like it all crazy like a square ball of yarn. I decided to do racing stripes.

The only thing that you need to do is get your horizontal strips in first. Everything after that can be purely cosmetic but you need some structure to start off with.almost completedalmost completedTape it upTape it up

Tip for the corners: tape higher up then once it's tight tuck the corner in. That way you have tape pushing in, tucked corner pushing out and a nice sturdy construction!CorneringCornering

She's decorated with duct tape, but I'm guessing you could cover it with fabric. At least that's what I'm planning to do!

Learn To Knit

Posted By davie k on Sep 25, 2007 at 12:31PM

Knitting is a forgotten art, but in this age of environmental consciousness we're growing to understand that the old arts and ways are more ecologically friendly. Learn all you need to know here.

Tagged with: knitting, How To, Learn

Make your Own Corset Top

Posted By davie k on Sep 20, 2007 at 9:10AM

Okay you can congratulate me and worship me later! This is relatively simple, but it's gonna take a while. Beware!Almost Finished CorsetAlmost Finished Corset

Gather your materials: For this endeavour you will need.
-fabric of your choosing. I know it may seem counter productive but try and make sure its not stretchy. We'll talk about what kinds you'll need later.
-boning. Can be fancy store bought but if you are like me just get some bendable plastic storage bins and a good box cutter and scissors.
-A sewing machine. Trust me it will save a lot of thread, time, and aspirin.
-Thread for the machine in appropriate colours..
-Duct tape. If you are on the larger side might as well be safe and make sure you've got loads of the stuff.
-Old t-shirt you won't mind cutting to pieces.
Most importantly, time, patience, good music and some friends who you aren't afraid to expose yourself to.

Make your pattern:
If you already had a store bought pattern, I'm assuming that you wouldn't be reading this, but just skip to the fabric part if so. Anyway, have in mind what you want the corset's basic design to look like. You can alter it later, but it helps.
Put on the t-shirt and start wrapping yourself in duct tape. Not too tight, but pretty snug. Wrap the duct tape exactly how you want the corset to fit. If you want your boobs squished, then do it now. If you want it to be low cut or the bottom to come down low, do it now. If you are confused you'll get the picture when you are in the process yourself. By the way it helps to have a friend helping you with this.

Cut yourself out: Now that you are covered, mark lines straight down in these places:
-Straight down the middle in the front
-One right over each nipple
-One right down each side under your shoulder
-One straight down your spine
-One halfway between the line under your arm and the line over your spine. Cut yourself out first by the cut in the front. Label each piece by side and number.
left side spine--L5
side next to spine--L4
one next to that--L3
you get it.
Then cut all the pieces out along the lines. You should have 10 pieces.Cut yourself outCut yourself out

The Tricky Part: Fabric. You'll need two kinds. The main fabric that you are going to see on the outside. You could try different fabrics for the different panels, but lets stick to one for now. And you'll need a lining fabric for the boning. This should be a soft, but strong fabric. Lay the main fabric down on the floor nice side down. Lay the pieces tape side down on the fabric, and trace the panels onto the fabric, and label them appropriately.
Once you've got all the panels traced, cut them out and make sure you don't lose them.
Trace the panels on to the fabricTrace the panels on to the fabric

Even trickier!: Pin two corresponding (ex.L2+L3) sides right sides together along the seam that meet at. This should be a long side. If you want you can pin it all together at one time, but I don't recommend it. Sew along where the pins are. Repeat for all sides until you have one strip of fabric. This strip should not lie flat, and if it does you've done it wrong. The parts where it rises or falls match the contours of your body. If you are confused about this part at all, it should make more sense when you come to this step yourself or by looking at the pictures. In any case, if you are still confused feel free to e-mail me with any confusion! Pin the fabric panels togetherPin the fabric panels together

Cutting your boning: Boning is the stuff that keeps your corset up while you are doing whatever you are doing. It also keeps it from getting nasty rumpling when you sit or bend.

Measure the length of your corset at its longest. Cut lengths of the plastic container with a width of about 1/2 more or less.
Now, take your lining fabric and sew a little pocket for the boning over each seam. Make sure the boning will fit. Slip the boning into the pocket and sew it up to keep it from falling out. These little pockets will make it more comfortable to wear your corset by covering the seams, and keeping it up by holding the boning. I suggest going over your stitches a couple times to make sure that they are very strong.
You will also have to put a piece of boning along each side of the spine.

Hemming and Fastening: Hem the top and bottom if you wish. Sew your fastenings to either side. The two most conventional fastenings are hook and eyes or lacing. The sides have to touch if you are using hook and eyes, but if you want some skin showing in the back, use lacing or get creative and think of something else. I used long loops and buttons for mine.
-Lacing- For lacing, you will have to get grommets as well. First, punch holes in the boning where you want them, then attach the grommets to the holes as necessary. You will need a special punch for this. Then just weave cord of some type through the grommets and you are set! Now you can wear it with pride!

Tagged with: corset, How To

Top 5 Ways To Define Your Own Personal�Style - iCiNG - galadarling.com

Posted By davie k on Sep 20, 2007 at 8:38AM

check it out!! really cool!! For all those who are trying to create their own style

Tagged with: style

Make Your Own Knitwear Corset

Posted By davie k on Sep 20, 2007 at 5:47AM

I was searching online for something totally different and stumbled on this pattern. I'm not sure if a knitting beginner will manage to make it, but it's definitely a cool pattern and a funky knitwear piece.Knitwear Combo CorsetKnitwear Combo Corset
circular needles, U.S. size 5 circular needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
2 stitch markers
darning needle
crochet hook, U.S. size E
buttons for front (22-28, varies)
Artyarns Ultra Merino 6 worsted-weight yarn (#239), 600 (650, 700, 750, 800, 850) yds.
Artyarns 100% silk ribbon (#133), 25 g / 128 yds.
Gauge: 5.5 sts = 1" on size-5 needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Finished bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) " / 87.2 (97.4, 107.7, 117.9, 128.2, 138.5) cm
Total Body Length: 22.25 (23.25, 24.5, 25.75, 27.25, 29.25) " / (59.6, 62.8, 66, 69.9, 75) cm
Knitwear Corset detailKnitwear Corset detailKnitwear Corset detail fig.2Knitwear Corset detail fig.2
Special stitches:
VDD (vertical double decrease) Slip 2 sts as if to K2tog, k1, pass slipped sts over the knit st.
YO (yarn over) Wrap yarn over needle before inserting into next stitch.
K1 (knit 1) On right side, K1. On wrong side, P1.
P1 (purl 1) On right side, P1. On wrong side, K1.
Lace pattern (10 st repeat + 1 st):
Row 1: (K1, YO, k3, VDD, k3, YO) rep to end, end k1 (gray stitch)
Row 2: Knit all sts
Row 3: (K1, YO, k3, VDD, k3, YO) rep to end, end k1 (gray stitch)
Row 4: Purl all sts
Cast on:
With a single strand of yarn and needles to obtain gauge, cast on 199 (219, 239, 259, 289, 309) sts. Knit 1 row.
Chart setup:
Row 1 K4, place marker (pm), (k1, YO, k3, VDD, k3, YO) rep 19 (21, 23, 25, 28, 30) times, k1, pm, k4: 199 (219, 239, 259, 289, 309) sts.
Row 2 Knit all sts, slipping markers.
Rep rows 1 and 2 of charted lace pat twice more: 6 rows of charted lace total.
Row 3: K4, slip marker (sm), (k1, YO, k3, VDD, k3, YO) rep 19 (21, 23, 25, 28, 30) times, k1, sm, k4.
Row 4 K4, sm, purl to next marker, sm, k4.
Rep rows 3 and 4 of charted lace pat until piece measures 3 (3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4) " / (8.3, 9, 9.6, 9.6, 10.3) cm from cast-on row, end with a WS row.
Continue working outer 4 sts each edge in garter st, work armholes as follows:
Next row (RS): K4, sm, work 29 (33, 36, 39, 43, 47) sts, loosely BO next 38 (40, 44, 48, 54, 56) sts, knit next 27 (31, 34, 37, 42, 46) sts, K2tog, knit next 28 (32, 35, 38, 43, 47) sts, BO next 38 (40, 44, 48, 54, 56) sts, knit 29 (33, 36, 39, 43, 47) sts, sm, k4.
Next row (WS): K4, sm, p 29 (33, 36, 39, 43, 47) sts, cast on 38 (40, 44, 48, 53, 55) sts, purl to next bound off section, cast on 38 (40, 44, 48, 53, 55) sts, purl next 29 (33, 36, 39, 43, 47) sts, sm, k4: 196 (216, 236, 256, 284, 304) sts.
Next row (RS): K4, sm, (k2, p2) rep to 2 sts before next marker, k2, sm, k4.
Next row (WS): K4, sm, (p2, k2) rep to 2 sts before next marker, p2, sm, k2.
Body setup:
Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 22.25 (23.25, 24.5, 25.75, 27.25, 29.25) " / (59.6, 62.8, 66, 69.9, 75) cm or desired length. BO very loosely in rib.
With a single strand of yarn and size E crochet hook and starting at lower left front, sc 196 (216, 236, 256, 284, 304) sts sts along bottom edge, sc 3 sts into corner,
sc 111 (116, 123, 129, 136, 146) rows sts along left front edge, sc 3 sts into corner,
sc 5 (5, 2, 3, 5, 5) sts, (ch 2, sk 2, sc next 3) rep along right front neck edge, sc 3 into corner,
sc 199 (219, 239, 259, 289, 309) sts sts along left front edge, sc 3 sts into corner,
sc 5 (5, 2, 3, 5, 5) sts, (ch 2, sk 2, sc next 3) rep along right front neck edge, sc 3 into corner.
Tie off last st, FO, weave in loose ends.

Tagged with: Combo corset, knitwear, How To

Make your own Woollen Hand Muff

Posted By davie k on Sep 18, 2007 at 4:54AM

Woollen Hand MuffWoollen Hand Muff
[MC] An assortment of leftovers and odd balls of DK and worsted weight yarns -- a two yard piece is not too short -- to equal about 330yd/300m (see notes on selecting yarns)
[CC] 6 oz/330 yds of a coordinating DK or worsted weight yarn for the cuffs and lining
16-inch US #10.5/6.5mm circular needle OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle

12 sts/16 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, using 2 strands of MC yarns held together.

alt alternate
approx approximately
beg begin[ning]
BO bind off [cast off]
cab cable
CC contrasting color
cn cable needle
CO cast on
cont continue[ing]
dec decrease[ing]
dpn double pointed needles[s]
foll follow[s][ing]
g grams
i-cord When working I-cord, work is not turned. Instead of turning the work around to work back on the WS, slide all sts to the other end of the needle, switch the needle back to your left hand, bring the yarn around the back of the work, and start knitting the sts again. After the first 2 sts, give the yarn a sharp tug. Repeat this row to form I-cord. After a few rows, the work will begin to form a tube.
inc increase[ing]
incl including
inst instructions
k knit
k tbl knit through back of loop
k2tog knit two together
kfb knit into front and back of stitch
m meter[s]
MB make bobble
MC main color
m1 Make 1 stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop.
1 stitch increased. mm millimeters
mult multiple
opp opposite
oz ounces
p purl
p2tog purl two together
patt[s] pattern[s]
pfb purl into front and back of stitch
pm place marker
psso pass slipped stitch[es] over
rem remaining
rep repeat
rev St st reverse stockinette stitch
RS right side[s]
rnd[s] round[s]
sc single crochet
SSK slip 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit those 2 stitches together
SSP slip 2 stitches as if to purl, then purl those 2 stitches together
sl slip
slp slip one as if to purl
sl st slip stitch
st[s] stitch[es]
St st stockinette stitch
tbl through back of loop[s]
tog together
WS wrong side[s]
w&t Wrap and turn. Bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next st to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this st to back of work, slip st back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin working back in the other direction.
YO yarn over
* * repeat directions between ** as many times as indicated

Notes on using scrap yarn:
The yarns can be selected from a particular color group, or from a random mix of colors. Try to choose a wide variety of textures: wool, mohair, boucle, ribbon, handspun, recycled silk, etc -- the more the better. Handpainted and variegated yarns give a nice effect because of their ever-changing colors. Add in a few dark-colored and light-colored yarns for highlights.

Pfb: Purl into front, then back of next st. 1 st increased.

Using two strands of CC held together, CO 40 sts. Place marker and join, being careful not to twist.
First Cuff:
Rounds 1-8: [K2, p2] to end.
Round 9: [K2, p1, pfb] to end. 50 sts.
Round 10: [K2, p3] to end. Break CC.
Muff Body:
Next Round: K all sts using 2 strands of MC yarn held together.
Continue in stockinette st, switching yarns every row (or as desired) as follows:
Switching yarns as you knit: For the most interesting effect, switch one yarn every row. For example, work the first row with one strand each of yarn A and yarn B, held together.
Cut yarn A, leaving a tail, and add a strand of yarn C, holding it together with the stand of yarn B already in use. Knit one round.
Cut yarn B, and add yarn D. Continue working in this way. You might find that some handpainted or variegated yarns can be worked for a couple of rows without changing. Do not forget to mix up the textures as you go. Think of the muff in two halves and balance the colors and textures on either side.
When work measures 11 inches from beginning of Muff Body, break MC.
Second Cuff:
Round 1: Using two strands of CC held together, [k2, p3] to end.
Round 2: [K2, p1, p2tog] to end. 40 sts.
Round 3: [K2, p2] around.
Repeat Round 3 until work measures 10 inches from end of MC section.
BO all sts loosely and break yarn, leaving a 1-yard tail.

Missing Him on Black Friday Hat Pattern

Posted By davie k on Sep 18, 2007 at 4:25AM

Missing Him on Black Friday Hat PatternMissing Him on Black Friday Hat Pattern
* Size 8 knitting needles
* Patons Soy Wool Stripes or other worsted weight yarn
* Darning needle
NOTE: One of the stitches used in this pattern is P2tog-b where you turn your work so that you can see the back side of the stitches, and insert your needle from the left into the back loops of the second stitch and then the first stitch, and wrap your rayn around the needle in front to make one purl stitch out of them. If this is too awkward for you another way to do it is to purl one, then slip it back to the left hand needle and pass the next stitch over the stitch just purled then slip the st back to the right hand needle and continue. Once you do it you will find it super simple either way
Cast on 84 sts, and do 1" of K1, P1, ribbing
P(attern) Row 1: Purl
PR2: Knit
PR3: Knit
PR4: Knit
PR5: Knit
PR6: *K1, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, K1* rep from * to * across row
PR7: *P2tog-b, yo, P3, yo, P2tog* rep from * to * across row
PR8: *K1, yo, K2tog, yo, slip 1, K2tog, psso (pass slipped stitch over the stitch from the K2tog and off the needle), yo, K1* rep from * to * across row
PR9: *P1, yo, P2tog, P1, P2tog-b, yo, P1* rep from * to * across row
PR10: *K2, yo, slip 1, K2tog, psso, yo, K2* rep from * to * across row
PR11: Knit
PR12: Knit
PR13: Knit
PR14: Knit
PR15: Purl
PR16: Knit
Repeat Rows 1-16 twice, then only rows 1-5 once more
Begin Decrease Rows:
D(ecrease) R1: *K10, K2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR2: *P9, P2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR3: *K8, K2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR4: *P7, P2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR5: *K6, K2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR6: *P5, P2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR7: *K4, K2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR8: *P3, P2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR9: *K2, K2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR10: *P1, P2tog* rep from * to * across row
DR11: K2tog across the row
Slip all stitches to the other needle and cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew up side seam. Thread yarn through darning needle and thread yarn tail through remaining stitches and pull tight. Secure and then proceed to sew up side seam.

Tagged with: woollen hat, pattern

Knitting Pattern Central - Free Hats Knitting Pattern Link Directory

Posted By davie k on Sep 18, 2007 at 4:16AM

Great and funky place for free hat knitting patterns

Tagged with: woollen hats, patterns, knitting

Jewelry, Hair Accessories, and Clothing

Posted By davie k on Sep 16, 2007 at 12:09PM

a whole page of how to's!!

Make Your Own Clutch Bag

Posted By davie k on Sep 12, 2007 at 8:31AM

Pleated Pouch ClutchPleated Pouch ClutchPleated Pouch Clutch with lidPleated Pouch Clutch with lidPleated Pouch Clutch with lid 2Pleated Pouch Clutch with lid 2
1. Make a sack (any proportion; bags shown, clockwise from top, are 16 inches by 12 inches, 9 inches by 7 inches, 5 inches by 5 inches).
2. Box the bottom corners.
3. Turn right side out. Pleat the top at the sides or in the middle; whipstitch to secure the pleats.
4. Hand-sew a flap to back of bag; add a small button loop closure. Or stitch a “waistband” to top of bag; cover seam with contrasting bias; then sew a long bias loop to inside of one pleat, a button to opposite outside.

Tagged with: clutch bag, How To